Chapter One

> Chapter One > The Best Full-Day Tours

The Best in One Day

This full and art-intensive day takes in Madrid's trio of superb art museums, the Prado, the Reina Sofia, and the Thyssen-Bornemisza, but also includes ample recovery time in two magnificent squares and the glorious Parque del Retiro. It ends with a visit to the opulent Royal Palace. START: Metro to Sol.

(1) *** Plaza Mayor. The vast pedestrian Plaza Mayor, enclosed by ranks of gleaming mansions and accessed by nine massive archways, is classic Habsburg. The site of hangings, bullfights, royal ceremonies, festivals, and the macabre autos da fe (the Inquisition executions), it became the city's main square under Felipe II in the late 16th century, when the Royal Court finally settled in Madrid and made it the capital. Order a coffee from one of the cafes with outdoor tables and soak up the history. See also p 39. [??] 45 min. Metro: Sol.

(2) *** Museo del Prado. This is one of the world's greatest art museums, originally assembled by the Habsburg kings. To see it properly would take days, but visiting just one gallery (Room 12, First Floor of the main Villanueva building) will give you a taster. This huge octagonal room contains works by the greatest artist of the Spanish Golden Age, Diego Velazquez (1599-1660). One painting stands out: Las Meninas (1656) depicts the 4-year-old Infanta Margarita and her entourage, with Velazquez himself gazing out from behind his easel. Look beyond the apparently simple court scene and its complexity and elusiveness grows. See also the Prado tour, p 24. [??] 1 hr. Paseo del Prado s/n. [??] 91-330-28-00, or [??] 902-10-70-77. www.museodel prado.es. Admission 6 [euro] adults, 3 [euro] students, free for under-18s when bought directly at ticket office; available in advance for 9 [euro] adults, free for under-6s; also part of the Paseo del Arte ticket 14.40 [euro]. Tues-Sat 9am-8pm, Dec 24, Dec 31, 6 Jan 9am-2pm. Closed Mon, Dec 25, Jan 1, Good Friday, May 1. Audioguide available for permanent collection 3.50 [euro], temporary exhibition 3.50, or both 5 [euro]. Metro: Banco de Espana.

(3) *** kids Parque del Retiro. After the fascinating but overwhelming Prado, the magnificent Retiro Park is close by. Here children can frolic in the playgrounds by the Calle Alcala entrance or kick a ball around on the lawns. The elegantly arranged Parterre gardens are restful, while the enormous Estanque (lake) with its marble colonnade hints that it was once a royal garden attached to the long-demolished palace of Buen Retiro. Now teeming with plump koi carp, the lake is filled with bobbing boats that can be rented by the hour. The atmosphere is carnivalesque, with mime artists, buskers, ice-cream vendors and snack kiosks, and cheerful crowds. It's a great place for a picnic, and, even on the hottest day, you can always find a shady corner. Head down to the pool near the beautiful Palacio de Cristal. For more on the highlights of the park, see Parque del Retiro, p 92. [??] 1 hr. Entrances on Cl Alcala, Cl Alfonso XII, Av. Menendez Pelayo, Paseo de Reina Cristina. Daily May-Sept 6am-midnight, Oct 6am-11pm, Nov-Apr 6am-10pm. Metro: Retiro.

(4) ** La Mallorquina. There are kiosks in the park for a quick bite, but for an upmarket picnic head one block up Calle Serrano from the park entrance by Puerta de Alcala to find La Mallorquina. They have the best take-out sandwiches, pies, cakes, and pastries in town. C/Serrano 6-8. [??] 91-577-18-59. $-$$.

(5) *** Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza. Across from the Prado, the elegant, neoclassical Palacio de Villahermosa is now home to the vast Thyssen-Bornemisza collection, acquired by the Baron Van Thyssen and his ex-Miss Spain wife, Carmen Cervera. Again, choosing just one section to highlight, the Impressionists (Gallery 32, First Floor) seem fitting after the Retiro park. Claude Monet's dreamy The Thaw in Vetheuil (1881), and his celebrated Charing Cross Bridge, barely visible in a white fog, are my favorites. In the adjoining gallery (33) are Degas' Swaying Dancer (1877-9) and Cezanne's dapper Portrait of a Farmer (1905-6). See also the tour of the highlights of the Thyssen-Bornemisza, p 30. [??] 1 hr. Paseo del Prado 8. [??] 91-369-01-51. www. museothyssen.org. Admission to permanent collection 6 [euro] adults, 4 [euro] students, free for under-12s; temporary exhibition prices vary. Combined admission to permanent and temporary collection available. Also part of Paseo del Arte ticket, 14.40 [euro]. Tues-Sun 10am-7pm, ticket office closes 6.30pm. Closed Mon, Dec 25, Jan 1, May 1. Audioguide available to permanent and temporary collections. Metro: Banco de Espana.

(6) *** Centre de Arte Reina Sofia. The fashionable Reina Sofia is the city's modern art museum. It is also home (Gallery 7, Second Floor) to Picasso's masterpiece Guernica (1937), painted in memory of the brutal bombing of an ancient Basque town by the Germans with Franco's approval in 1937. See also the tour of the highlights of the Reina Sofia, p 32. [??] 1 hr. Cl Santa Isabel 52. [??] 91-774-10-00. www.museureina sofia.es. Admission to permanent collection 6 [euro] adults, 3 [euro] students, free for under-12s; temporary exhibition prices vary. Combined admission to permanent and temporary collection available. Also part of Paseo del Arte ticket, 14.40. Mon, Wed-Sun 10am-9pm, ticket office closes 6.30pm. Closed Tues, Dec 24, Dec 25, Dec 31, Jan 1, Jan 6, May 1, May 15, Sept 7, Free Sat 2.30-9pm, Sun 10am-2.30pm, May 18, Oct 12, Dec 6. Audioguide available to permanent and temporary collections. Guided visits in Spanish only Mon and Wed 5pm, Sat 11pm. Metro: Banco de Espana.

(7) * Arola Madrid. If you're gasping for a sit-down, try this stylish new cafe in the striking extension to the Reina Sofia. The huge curving red walls remind me of a spaceship, and the excellent coffee, sandwiches, and pastries will restore you. See p100. Cl Argumosa 43. [??] 91-467-02-02. $$.

(8) ** kids Plaza de Oriente. Jump on the efficient metro at Atocha, with a quick change at Sol, to emerge at Opera. Walk around to the front of the lavish Opera House to find the impressive Plaza de Oriente. With the enormous Royal Palace, the Opera House, and neat gardens with fountains and statues, this is the city's grandest square. After a short stroll around the gardens (there's a playground for youngsters), treat yourself to an ice cream and grandstand views at one of the smart cafe terraces. [??] 30 min. Metro: Opera.

(9) *** kids Palacio Real. Prepare yourself for an assault on the Royal Palace, an immense 18th-century construction that has almost 3,000 rooms. Fortunately, just a handful are open to the public. Leave the lavish interior for another day, and explore the expansive main courtyard and the two small museums just off it. These contain a charming old pharmacy and the interesting Royal Armory, with extravagant suits of armor for men and mounts. I like the exquisitely engraved armor used by Charles V (Carlos I of Spain) in the Battle of Muhlberg (1547). See also the tour of Old Madrid, p35. [??] 1 1/2 hrs. Cl Bailen. [??] 91-454-87-00. Admission to Palace, Pharmacy, and Royal Armory with guided visit: 10 adults, 6 [euro] students and children 5-16, or 8 [euro] without guide, no concessions; guided visit to Palace, Pharmacy, Royal Armory, and Picture Gallery: 11 [euro] adults, 7 [euro] students and children 5-16. Picture gallery only 2 [euro], no concessions; Royal Armory only 3.40 [euro] adults, 2.50 [euro] students and children 5-16, free non-guided visits for EU-citizens Wed (take your passport). Oct-Mar Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm, Sun 9.30am-2pm; Apr-Sept Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun 9am-3pm. Closed Jan 1, Jan 7, May 1, Sept 9, Oct 12, Dec 24, Dec 25, Dec 31. Metro: Opera.

(10) * Catedral de la Almudena. From the Royal Palace, walk south down the busy Calle Bailen. On the right soars the massive cathedral. Peep in to see the lovely stained glass windows, which fill the cavernous interior with jewel-colored light, and the statue of La Virgen de la Almudena, the city's patron saint. According to legend, she is credited with ensuring that the Moors were ousted during the time of the Reconquest. [??] 20 min. Free. Daily 10am-7.30pm, no entry to tourists during mass. Metro: Opera.

(11) ** Jardines de las Vistillas. These small gardens, unfortunately rather shabby, are at the center of a buzzy bar and restaurant district, which has sprung up because of the glorious views of the distant sierras. Ignore the gardens and head for the bars and their terraces. The district faces west, and the sight of the setting sun turning the sky scarlet behind the grand silhouettes of the cathedral and the Royal Palace is breathtaking. [??] 45 min. Metro: La Latina.

(12) ** Restaurante El Ventorillo. Pull up a chair on the terrace of this old-fashioned restaurant and join the Madrilenos watching the sunset. The restaurant has good house wines, beers, and a wide range of tapas. The main dishes are slightly pricey but the setting is unforgettable. Cl De Bailen 14. [??] 91-366-35-78. $$.

The Best in Two Days

With Madrid's blockbuster sights under your belt, a more leisurely pace is in order on your second day. This itinerary takes in some of the quirkier attractions, including a convent for blue-blooded nuns, an extraordinary cabinet of reliquaries, and the tomb of that most Madrileno of painters, Goya. And there is a dash of contemporary pizzazz with the city's showcase shopping street, the Gran Via. START: Metro to Opera.

(1) ** Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida. This small chapel may seem off the beaten track, but it's just a short one-stop ride from the Opera metro. A neoclassical jewel, it is now most famous for its vivid and charming frescoes, painted by the finest Spanish artist of the late 18th and early 19th centuries, Francisco de Goya (1746-1828). Goya died in Bordeaux, France, but his remains were brought back to this chapel in 1919. His recently restored frescoes occupy the entire cupola and glow with life and color. They depict St Anthony raising a murdered man to life in order to exonerate the saint's father, who stood accused of the crime. Instead of a heavenly host surrounding the saint, Goya painted in a balcony and filled it with contemporary Madrilenos, particularly the majos and majas, (the swaggering dandies of the working class), who were his favorite subject. The painting is transformed from a dull religious work into an engaging and witty evocation of the city. Visit June 9 to 13, when the chapel is the center of a lively festival in honor of the saint, with street fairs, parades, and traditional dancing. [??] 45 min. Glorieta de San Antonio de la Florida 5. [??] 91-542-07-22. www.munimadrid. es/ermita. Admission free. Sept-July Tues-Fri 9.30am-8pm, Sat-Sun 10am-2pm. Aug Tues-Fri 9.30am- 2.30pm, Sat-Sun 10am-2pm. Closed Jan 1, May 1, Sept 9, Dec 24, Dec 25, Dec 31. Metro: Principe Pio.

(2) *** Cafe del Oriente. This may be one of the more touristy cafes, but it's still one of the best. Its elegant gilded salons are popular with well-heeled ladies and their lapdogs, but the fantastic terrace overlooking Madrid's most regal square is the place to sit. Perfect for a leisurely breakfast, while you admire the views of the gardens, fountains, and splendid Royal Palace. Plaza de Oriente 2. [??] 91-541-39-74. $.

(3) ** kids Monasterio de la Encarnacion. This austerely beautiful convent was established in 1611 by Margarita of Austria, wife of Felipe III. It is still home to a closed community of nuns, but visits are possible with a guide. The countless treasures, which the convent acquired thanks to its royal patron, have long been dispersed, but the lack of riches amplifies the sublime qualities of this restrained Baroque building. There is one great treasure, among the strangest in Madrid: the relic room. In this thrillingly macabre chamber, more than 4,000 reliquaries, containing the bones, hair, teeth, and limbs of saints and martyrs, line every wall. Foremost among them is the blood of San Pantaleon, which is said to liquefy every year on July 2. If it happens at any other time, so legend goes, the city is in danger. See also p 37. [??] 1 hr. Plaza de la Encarnacion 1. [??] 91-454-88-00. www.patrimonio nacional.es. Admission 3.60 [euro] adults, 2.90 [euro] students and children 5-16, free Wed for EU-citizens; combined admission ticket with Monasterio de Las Descalzas Reales 6 [euro] adults, 4.90 [euro] students and children 5-16. June-Sept Tues-Sat 10am-8pm; Tues, Wed, Thurs, Sat 10.30am-12.45pm and 4-5.45pm, Fri 10.30am-12.45pm, Sun and public hols 11am-1.45pm Sun 10am-3pm. Closed Jan 1, Easter weekend, May 1, May 15, Sept 9, Dec 24, Dec 25, Dec 31. Metro: Opera.

(4) kids Real Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales. This translates as the Royal Monastery of Barefoot Royals, but there is nothing ascetic about it. Established for blue-blooded nuns, this is opulent where the Encarnacion convent is restrained, and has managed to retain important works of art, including a magnificent series of tapestries by Rubens. Founded in 1559 by the king's sister, Juana of Austria, it occupies a striking baroque building in the city center. There is still a small community of nuns here too, and the convent is only open for guided tours. For highlights, see p 38. [??] 1 hr. Plaza de las Descalzas s/n. [??] 91-454-88-00. www.patrimonionacional.es. Admission 5 [euro] adults, 4 [euro] students and children 5-16, free Wed to EU-citizens; combined admission ticket with Real Monasterio de la Encarnacion 6 [euro], students and children 5-16 4.90 [euro]. June-Sept Tues-Sat 10am-8pm, Sun 10am-3pm; Oct-May Tues; Wed, Thurs and Sat 10.30am-12.45pm and 4-5.45pm. Fri 10.30am-12.45pm, Sun and public hols 11am-1.45pm. Closed Jan 1, Easter weekend, May 1, May 15, Sept 9, Dec 24, Dec 25, Dec 31. Metro: Sol.

(5) *** Taberna Los 4 Robles. This cheerfully old-fashioned tavern is handily located just around the corner from the Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales. Brightly lit and decorated with colorful tiles, it's a great place to refuel with coffee or a beer and some tapas-see what's chalked up on the board before choosing. Join the locals at the bar, and toss your used napkins on the floor in true Spanish fashion. Plaza Celenque 1. [??] 91-522-76-86. $.

(6) ** Gran Via. Two convents, however fascinating, is enough for one day. The Gran Via is known, with more bravura than truth, as the Broadway Madrileno for its concentration of musical theaters. Laid out in the early 20th-century, this long, broad avenue cuts straight across the city, linking east to west. Designed to show the world that Madrid was no backwater sunk in the past, it is lined with outrageously pompous buildings in a mish-mash of once-fashionable styles-lavish neoclassical, sleek Art Deco, and twirling Art Nouveau, all built on a monumental scale. There is certainly a hint of the great avenues of New York, Chicago, or even some South American capitals-despite the best efforts of the international fast food chains to make all city streets look the same around the world. Look up to note the architecture, because at street level, your gaze will no doubt be diverted by the shop windows. Every major Spanish chain can be found here, including some great bookshops such as the Casa del Libro (No. 29), the fashion phenomenon Zara (No. 32), and plenty more. The Gran Via is at its best in the late afternoon, with the sun setting and the neon signs glowing against the buildings. [??] 1 hr. Metro: Gran Via, Callao and Plaza de Espana.

(7) ** Puerta del Sol. You will no doubt find yourself at the Puerta del Sol several times during your visit, however brief. It's the city's main transport hub, and the confluence of numerous metro and bus routes. Once this was one of the most piquant squares in the city, where anything and anyone was available for a price. Now, it's frankly rather dull, exacerbated by the immense hoardings protecting the works going on beneath the surface to bring local trains into the area as well. Still, it's worth a quick visit to check out Kilometro Cero-the very center of Spain, which is marked on a plaque in front of the Casa de Correos (the ochre-colored 18th-century building bristling with flags). If you're in Madrid on New Year's Eve, this is the place to come, armed with a bottle of cava and 12 grapes (one for each chime during the countdown to midnight). [??] 20 min. Metro: Sol.

(8) ** kids CaixaForum Madrid. Back on the Paseo del Arte, opposite the Prado, is the city's newest art institution, the Caixa-Forum, which opened in 2007. Get a program in advance from the tourist office: all kinds of great activities are on offer, from art exhibitions and concerts to family days and special activities for children. The building itself is a stunning contemporary conversion of an 1899 power station, topped with a two-floor annex enclosed by a bold rusted iron sculpture. Inside you find a decent cafe-restaurant (with windows peeking through the mottled iron) and a good book and gift-shop. Best of all is the Vertical Garden, by French botanic artist Patrick Blanc, an enormous wall covered with more than 200 plant species in intricate designs. It's my favorite piece of public art in the city. [??] 1 hr. Paseo del Prado 36. [??] 91-330-73-00. www. lacaixa.es/obrasocial. Admission varies according to exhibition and activity, but most are free. Tues-Sun 10am-8pm. Metro: Atocha.

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Excerpted from "Frommer's Madrid Day by Day" by Mary-Ann Gallagher. Copyright (C) by Mary-Ann Gallagher. Excerpted by permission. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher. Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.