Chapter One
Chapter One
Ready to Drop
DATELINE: TIMES SQUARE, November 1997.
Deloused and revitalized Times Square, home to MTV,
Conde Nast, Morgan Stanley, the world's biggest
Marriott hotel, the Ford Center for the Performing
Arts, and soon a Madame Tussaud's wax museum.
And Peep Land. From its doorway on West Forty-second
Street one can see the glittering marquee of the
new Disney Store at Broadway. More importantly,
from the Disney Store one can clearly see Peep Land:
a scrofulous, neon-lit affirmation of XXX-rated raunch.
Sleaze lives.
It lives and it beckons, though less garishly than
either the Disney Store or its rococo neighbor, the
New Amsterdam Theater, where golden
breeze-furled banners advertise The Lion King, a
musical based on a cartoon movie. Both the cartoon
(which grossed $772 million worldwide) and the stage
show (which will most likely be the most successful
production in Broadway history) were created as
exemplary family entertainment by the Walt Disney
Company, which also lavishly restored the New
Amsterdam at a cost of $38 million.
In this way Disney audaciously has set out to
vanquish sleaze in its unholiest fountainhead, Times
Square; the skanky oozepot to which every live sex
show, jack-off arcade, and smut emporium in the free
world owes its existence. For decades, city and state
politicians had vowed to purge the place of its
legendary seediness, in order to make the streets safe,
clean, and attractive for out-of-town visitors. New
Yorkers paid no attention to such fanciful promises, for
Times Square was knowledgeably regarded as lost and
unconquerable; a mephitic pit, so formidably infested
that nothing short of a full-scale military occupation
could tame it. As recently as 1994 Times Square
swarmed unabashedly with hookers, hustlers, and
crackheads and was the address of forty-seven porn
shops.
Then Disney arrived, ultimate goodness versus
ultimate evil, and the cynics gradually went silent.
Times Square has boomed.
The dissolute, sticky-shoed ambience of Forty-second
Street has been subjugated by the gleamingly
wholesome presence of the Disney Store. Truly it's a
phenomenon, for the shelves offer nothing but the usual
cross-merchandised crapola: snow globes,
wristwatches, charm bracelets, figurines, and lots of
overpriced clothes. Hard-core fans can buy matching
Mickey and Minnie garden statues, a $400 Disney
Villains chess set, or a twenty-fifth-anniversary
Disney-edition Barbie doll, complete with teensy mouse
ears. Your basic high-end tourist trap is what it is.
Yet somehow the building radiates like a shrine--because
it's not just any old store, it's a Disney store,
filled with Disney characters, Mickey and Minnie at
play in the fields of Times Fucking Square. And
evidently the mere emplacement of the iconic Disney
logo above the sidewalks has been enough to
demoralize and dislodge some of the area's most
entrenched sin merchants.
The mayor of New York says that's a good thing,
and citizens agree: good for tourism, good for children,
good for the morale of the community. If Times
Square can be redeemed, some would say, then no
urban Gomorrah is beyond salvation. All you need is a
Disney retail outlet! (As of this writing, there are
more than 550 in eleven countries.)
It's not surprising that one company was able to
change the face of Forty-second Street, because the
same company changed the face of an entire state,
Florida, where I live. Three decades after it began
bulldozing the cow pastures and draining the marshes
of rural Orlando, Disney stands as by far the most
powerful private entity in Florida; it goes where it
wants, does what it wants, gets what it wants. It's our
exalted mother teat, and you can hear the sucking from
Tallahassee all the way to Key West.
The worst damage isn't from the Walt Disney
World Resort itself (which is undeniably clean, well
operated, and relatively safe) or even from the tourists
(although an annual stampede of forty million
Griswolds cannot help but cut an untidy swath). The
absolute worst thing Disney did was to change how
people in Florida thought about money; nobody had
ever dreamed there could be so much. Bankers,
lawyers, real-estate salesmen, hoteliers, restaurateurs,
farmers, citrus growers--everyone in Mickey's orb had
to drastically recalibrate the concepts of growth,
prosperity, and what was possible. Suddenly there
were no limits. Merely by showing up, Disney had dignified
blind greed in a state pioneered by undignified greedheads.
Everything the company touched turned to gold,
so everyone in Florida craved to touch or be
touched by Disney. The gates opened, and in galloped
fresh hordes. The cattle ranches, orange
groves, and cypress stands of old Orlando rapidly
gave way to an execrable panorama of suburban
blight.
One of the great ironies upon visiting Disney World
is the wave of relief that overwhelms you upon
entering the place--relief to be free of the nerve-shattering
traffic and the endless ugly sprawl. By
contrast the Disney resort seems like a verdant
sanctuary. That was the plan, of course--Team
Rodent left the park buffered with thousands of
unspoiled acres, to keep the charmless roadside
schlock at bay.
As Orlando exploded, business leaders (and
therefore politicians) throughout the rest of Florida
watched and plotted with envy. Everyone conspired
for a cut of the Disney action, meaning overflow. The
trick was to catch the tourists after they departed the
Magic Kingdom: induce them to rent a car and drive
someplace else and spend what was left of their
vacation money. This mad obsession for sloppy
seconds has paid off big-time. By the
year 2000, the number of tourists visiting the
Orlando area is expected to reach forty-six million
annually. That's more than the combined populations of
California and Pennsylvania storming into Florida every
year, an onslaught few places on earth could
withstand. Many Disney pilgrims do make time to
search for auxiliary amusement in other parts of the
state. High on the list is the southernmost chain of
islands known as the Keys, where I live, and where
only one road runs the length of the archipelago.
Maybe you can appreciate my concern.
Disney's recent ambitions in Times Square are
modest compared to its original mission in Florida: to
establish a sovereign state within a state, a private
entertainment mecca to which every working family in
America would be lured at least once and preferably
several times. And that's exactly what has come to
pass. Disney World is the most-visited vacation
destination on the planet; kids who went there in the
1970s are bringing their own kids today, perpetuating a
brilliantly conceived cycle of acculturation. Every
youngster who loves a Disney theme park--and almost
all of them do--represents a potential lifetime consumer
of all things Disney, from stuffed animals to sitcoms,
from Broadway musicals to three-bedroom
tract homes. With this strategy Disney will someday
tap into the fortunes of every person on the planet, as
it now does to every American whether we know it
or not.
(Continues...)
Excerpted from "Team Rodent"
by Carl Hiaasen.
Copyright (C) 1998 by Carl Hiaasen.
Excerpted by permission.
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher. Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.