BOOK DETAILS

I Can Quilt

I Can Quilt

by Carolyn S. Vagts

ISBN: 9781592174607

Publisher Annie's

Published in Children's Books/Arts & Music

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Sample Chapter


CHAPTER 1

Lesson 1

Folded Four-Patch Coasters


SPECIFICATIONS

Coaster: 4½" x 4½"


WHAT YOU NEED

Materials listed make one coaster.

• 5 different (5") precut squares in the same color family

• 1 (5") square of batting

• Neutral-color all-purpose thread

• Basic sewing tools and supplies


COMPLETING THE COASTER

Stitch right sides together using a ¼" seam allowance unless otherwise indicated.

1. Fold four of the 5" precut squares in half wrong sides together, as shown in Figure 1, and press. Mark with numbers 1–4 and set aside.

2. Position the last 5" precut square right side up on top of the 5" square of batting matching the edges as shown in Figure 2 to make a batting/backing unit.

3. Position folded square 1 across the top half of the batting/backing unit matching cut edges (Figure 3). Pin in place.

4. Position folded square 2 on top of the first folded square matching cut edges with the right side of the batting/backing unit as shown in Figure 4. Pin in place.

5. Position folded square 3 across the bottom of the batting/backing unit and on top of folded square 2 as shown in Figure 5 matching cut edges. Pin in place.

6. Remove the pin from folded square 1 and fold un-pinned section back over the upper right corner of folded square 2 as seen in Figure 6a.

7. Position folded square 4 on the left side of the batting/backing unit matching cut edges as seen in Figure 6b.

8. Unfold folded square 1 to cover the top left corner of folded square 4 as shown in Figure 6c and pin around outside edges to hold.

9. Stitch ¼" away from all outer edges, pivoting at each corner (Figure 7). Remove all pins.

10. Trim each corner by cutting off some of the seam allowance on the diagonal (Figure 8). Be careful not to cut through the stitching. Trimming the corner will help make sharp, pointed corners after turning right side out.

11. Push the batting/backing to the right side through the folded squares. Carefully push the coaster points out with a pencil or pen. Press coaster flat.

12. Make more coasters by gathering the materials listed for each coaster to be made and repeat all assembly steps.

CHAPTER 2

Lesson 2

Charmed Nine-Patch Treasure Bag


SPECIFICATIONS

7" x 7" folded


WHAT YOU NEED

• 9 coordinating 5" precut squares

• 1 coordinating fat quarter

• 2 (36") pieces of coordinating color 1/8"–¼" cord

• All-purpose thread

• Safety pin

• Basic sewing tools and supplies


CUTTING

1. Cut one 14" square from the coordinating fat quarter.


COMPLETING THE NINE-PATCH BLOCK

1. Arrange the nine 5" precut squares in three rows of three squares each as shown in Figure 1.

Note: You can rearrange the squares in the rows to make your own color arrangement and design.

2. Stitch the first row of squares right sides together along one side using a ¼" seam allowance (Figure 2). Press the seam allowances to one side. Go to Pressing on page 31 for tips.

3. Repeat step 2 with the second and third rows. Press the seams in the second row in the opposite direction of row 1 (Figure 3). Press seams in third row in the same direction as row 1 as shown in Figure 3.

4. Stitch rows right sides together matching seams and long cut edges of rows as shown in Nesting Seams on page 5 to complete the Nine-Patch block shown in Figure 4. Press row seams in one direction. The block should measure 14" on all sides.


COMPLETING THE TREASURE BAG

1. Position the Nine-Patch block right sides together on top of the 14" square matching the outside edges and pin (Figure 5).

2. Start in the middle of one side and stitch around all the outer edges using a ¼" seam allowance, pivoting at corners. Stop stitching 4" from where you began, leaving an opening in the seam for turning right side out as shown in Figure 6.

3. Trim each corner by cutting off some of the seam allowance on the diagonal (Figure 7). Be careful not to cut through the stitching. Trimming the corner will help make sharp, pointed corners after turning right side out.

4. Turn the stitched pieces right side out through the seam opening. Carefully push the points out with a pencil or pen.

5. Turn the opening seam allowances to the inside of the stitched pieces and press outside edges flat.

6. Stitch the seam opening closed with matching thread by hand using a slipstitch as seen in Figure 8.

7. With the Nine-Patch block side up, fold a corner of the block in half diagonally to meet the opposite seam lines making a triangle and pin as shown in Figure 9.

8. Repeat with all four corners so that the Nine-Patch block looks like Figure 10.

9. Using a water-soluble marker and ruler, draw a stitching line ½" away from a corner fold as seen in Figure 11. Stitch across the triangle corner on the drawn line. Repeat on all four corners.

10. Attach a safety pin to one end of one of the cord pieces. Thread the safety pin and cord through the corner seams, beginning with the lower right corner and leaving a tail at the beginning (Figure 12).

11. Repeat with the second cord beginning with the upper left corner.

12. Tie the ends of each cord together in a knot. Because the cords are threaded in opposite directions, when pulled the cords gather the bag closed.

CHAPTER 3

Lesson 3

Quilted Photo Frame


SPECIFICATIONS

8½" x 10½" (holds 5" x 7" photo)


WHAT YOU NEED

• 2 coordinating fat quarter prints

• 1 (5") precut square coordinating solid or tonal

• #8 coordinating pearl cotton thread

• Batting 9" x 12" rectangle

• Neutral-color all-purpose thread

• 12–16 assorted round or shaped ¼"–1" buttons (optional)

• Hanger (optional)

• Basic sewing tools and supplies


CUTTING

Cut all pieces along the 22" width of the coordinating fat quarter prints. Go to Measuring & Cutting on page 31 for tips.

1. From one of the coordinating fat quarter prints, cut three 2½" x 21" strips for binding.

2. Cut three 2" x 21" strips from the same fat quarter print. Cut the strips into two 2" x 5½" rectangles for C and D, two 2" x 10½" rectangles for E and F, and two 2½" x 6" G strips.

3. From the second coordinating fat quarter print, cut one each 5½" x 7½" B rectangle and 9" x 12" H backing rectangle.

4. From the coordinating square, cut four 2" A squares.


COMPLETING THE PHOTO FRAME TOP

Stitch right sides together using a ¼" seam allowance unless otherwise indicated.

1. Fold each A square in half diagonally wrong sides together to make four A triangles (Figure 1).

2. Pin one A to each corner of B matching the raw edges (Figure 2). Stitch along raw edges using a 1/8" seam allowance as shown in Figure 2 to make the center unit.

3. Stitch C to the top and D to the bottom of the center unit as shown in Figure 3. Press seams toward C and D.

4. Stitch E and F to opposite sides of the center unit as shown in Figure 4. Press seams toward E and F to complete the photo frame top.


COMPLETING THE HANGING LOOPS

1. To make two loops for hanging the photo frame, fold the G strips in half lengthwise wrong sides together and press (Figure 5a).

2. Open G strips flat and fold long raw edges to the center (Figure 5b); pressing again.

3. Refold and press G strips along the center so that the raw edges are in the center of G as shown in Figure 5c.

4. Stitch close to the open folded side of the G strips (Figure 6). Set aside.


COMPLETING THE PHOTO FRAME

1. Make a quilt sandwich by layering backing H, wrong side up, the batting and centering the photo frame top on top. Pin-baste the layers together. Go to Making a Quilt Sandwich on page 31 for tips.

2. Stitch-in-the-ditch around B using a matching thread color as shown by the white stitching line in Figure 7. Go to Quilting Stitches on page 31 for instructions on stitching-in-the-ditch.

3. Carefully trim the batting and backing H even with the photo frame top edges.

4. Measure and mark backing H side of quilted photo frame 2" from the sides of the top edge.

5. Fold the two G strips in half and pin in place on the H side of the photo frame at the 2" marks, matching raw edges, as shown in Figure 8a.

6. Stitch G strips in place using a 1/8" seam allowance (Figure 8b).

7. Go to Binding a Quilt on page 32 for tips to prepare and add binding to complete the photo frame.

CHAPTER 4

Lesson 4

Log Cabin Pillow


SPECIFICATIONS

Pillow: 17" x 17"


WHAT YOU NEED

• 3 coordinating fat quarters

• 4 (2½" by fabric width) precut coordinating strips

• 16" x 16" pillow form

• Neutral-color all-purpose thread

• Basic sewing tools and supplies


CUTTING

Go to Measuring & Cutting on page 31 for tips.

1. From one of the coordinating fat quarters, cut one 9½" A square.

2. Cut one 17½" x 20" rectangle from each remaining fat quarter. Label one B and one C.

3. From one 2½" precut strip, cut one 2½" x 9½" No. 1 strip and one 2½" x 11½" No. 2 strip.

4. From a second 2½" precut strip, cut one 2½" x 11½" No. 3 strip and one 2½" x 13½" No. 4 strip.

5. From a third 2½" precut strip, cut one 2½" x 13½" No. 5 strip and one 2½" x 15½" No. 6 strip.

6. From a fourth 2½" precut strip, cut one 2½" x 15½" No. 7 strip and one 2½" x 17½" No. 8 strip.


MAKING A LOG CABIN BLOCK PILLOW FRONT

Stitch right sides together using a ¼" seam allowance unless otherwise indicated.

1. Stitch strip No. 1 to left side of A (Figure 1). Press seam allowance toward strip No. 1.

2. Stitch strip No. 2 to the top of A as shown in Figure 2. Press seam allowance toward strip No. 2.

3. Stitch strip No. 3 to the right side of A (Figure 3). Press seam allowance toward strip No. 3.

4. Stitch strip No. 4 to the bottom of A as shown in Figure 4. Press seam allowance toward strip No. 4.

5. Stitch strip No. 5 to the left side of the Log Cabin unit as shown in Figure 5. Press seam allowance toward strip No. 5.

6. Stitch strip No. 6 to the top of the Log Cabin unit (Figure 6). Press seam allowance toward strip No. 6.

7. Stitch strip No. 7 to the right side of the Log Cabin unit (Figure 7). Press seam allowance toward strip No. 7.

8. Stitch strip No. 8 to the bottom of the Log Cabin unit (Figure 8). Press seam allowance toward strip No. 8 to complete the Log Cabin block pillow front.


COMPLETING THE PILLOW

1. Fold B and C in half wrong sides together into 10" x 17½" rectangles (Figure 9) and press.

2. Lay the Log Cabin block pillow front right side up on a flat surface.

3. Position B on top of the Log Cabin block pillow front with the raw edges aligned at the top and the folded edge toward the center as shown in Figure 10. Pin into place.

4. Position C on top of the Log Cabin block pillow front with the raw edges aligned at the bottom and the folded edge toward the center as shown in Figure 11. Pin into place.

5. Stitch around all outer edges and trim corners referring to Figure 12. Turn right side out through the B/C overlap and press edges flat.

6. Topstitch ¼" from outer edges. Insert 16" square pillow form to complete pillow.

CHAPTER 5

Lesson 5

Sassy Strip Tote


SPECIFICATIONS

9½" x 3½" x 13"


WHAT YOU NEED

• 8 (2½" by fabric width) coordinating precut strips

• ½ yard coordinating print or solid

• ½ yard muslin

• 2 (1" x 18") pieces nylon strapping

• Batting 14½" x 30"

• Neutral-color all-purpose thread

• 2 (1" x 18") pieces nylon strap

• Blue painter's tape

• Basic sewing tools and supplies


CUTTING

1. Cut seven 2½" x 30" strips from the 2½" precut strips. Set aside the remaining precut strip for binding.

2. Cut one 14½" by fabric width strip from coordinating print or solid. Subcut strip into one 14½" x 30" rectangle for bag lining.

3. Cut one 14½" by fabric width strip from muslin. Subcut strip into one 14½" x 30" rectangle for quilting backing.


COMPLETING THE OUTER BAG

Stitch right sides together using a ¼" seam allowance unless otherwise indicated.

1. Stitch two 2½" x 30" strips together on the long sides (Figure 1a). Continue stitching strips to the first two along the long sides until all seven strips have been stitched together as shown in Figure 1b. Press all seams in the same direction. Note: This is commonly referred to as strip piecing. It is a quick and accurate way to stitch evenly sized lengths of fabric together to be cut into units to make blocks or to create a striped fabric for a bag!

2. Tape the muslin rectangle to a flat surface with blue painter's tape on all four corners.

3. Center batting on muslin and strip-pieced outer bag on batting right side up to make a layered quilt sandwich (Figure 2). Make sure all sandwich layers are smooth.

4. Use quilter's bent safety pins to pin-baste layers together positioning pins approximately 3" apart all over the quilt sandwich.

5. Quilt the sandwiched layers as desired. Go to Quilting Stitches on page 31 for tips. The sample bag was quilted using a meandering pattern.


SQUARING BAG CORNERS

1. Fold the quilted and pieced outer bag in half right sides together along the length. Pin and stitch both sides (Figure 3). Press seams open.

2. To square both bottom corners, match the side seams to the fold on the bag bottom at each corner. Measure and mark a stitching line 3" from the corner points as shown in Figure 4a.

3. Stitch on the marked lines and trim the seam allowances to ¼" as shown in Figure 4b. Turn bag right side out.

4. Fold the 14½" x 30" lining rectangle in half right sides together to measure 14½" x 15". Pin and stitch sides.

5. Repeat steps 2 and 3 with both corners of the lining piece. Do not turn lining right side out.


COMPLETING THE BAG

1. Place lining inside the quilted strip-pieced outer bag wrong sides together and matching the side seams and top raw edges. Pin around top raw edges (Figure 5).

2. Measure 3" from each side seam on both the front and back of the outer bag. Position and pin the nylon strips to the top raw edge of the outer bag as shown in Figure 6.

3. Baste 1/8" from the top raw edges securing lining, quilted strip-pieced outer bag and handles.

4. Take the precut strip set aside for binding and fold 1" of one short end to the wrong side. Fold strip in half lengthwise wrong sides together and press.

5. Pin binding strip to top edge of bag, matching raw edges. Stitch to bag starting 1" from folded end using a ¼" seam allowance tucking unfolded end inside folded end before finishing stitching. Go to Binding a Quilt on page 32.

CHAPTER 6

Lesson 6

Pinwheel Pot Holder


SPECIFICATIONS

8" x 8"


WHAT YOU NEED

• 1 fat quarter print

• 1 fat quarter contrasting solid

• 1 (10" square) needlepunched insulating batting

• Neutral-color all-purpose thread

• Basic sewing tools and supplies


CUTTING

1. Cut two 2½" x 21" D strips from print fat quarter.

2. Cut one 10" x 21" strip from print fat quarter. Subcut one 10" C square and two 4 7/8" A squares.

3. Cut one 4?" x 18" strip from contrasting solid fat quarter. Subcut two 4 7/8" B squares.


COMPLETING THE PINWHEEL BLOCK

Stitch right sides together using a ¼" seam allowance unless otherwise indicated.

1. Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of each B square as shown in Figure 1.

2. Position a B square on top of an A square right sides together matching raw edges. Stitch ¼" from line on either side of drawn line (Figure 2).

3. Cut on the drawn line as shown in Figure 3 to make two A-B half-square units. Press the seam open. Note: Pressing the seams open on a pinwheel block reduces the bulk that must be sewn through at the center of the block.

(Continues…)
Excerpted from "I Can Quilt" by Carolyn S. Vagts. Copyright © 2013 by Carolyn S. Vagts. Excerpted by permission. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher. Excerpts are provided solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.
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